New Zealand Rabbit Genetics: Coat Color: It's In The Genes

To reiterate what we talked about in my first article on dominant and recessive genes, a rabbits chromosomes are strings of DNA that act as building blocks or blueprints that determines the final characteristics or traits of the animal. Each chromosome has an individual spot or location (loci) in which a specific gene is attached. The buck and doe each contribute one part of their chromosome's to their offspring. When these two chromosomes combine together they form a chromosomal pairing in which each chromosome supplies one allele to make a genetic pair. These allele pairings then act together, alone or in combination with other alleles and gene modifiers to determine a rabbits overall coat and hair appearance.

In this second article of the series, we will be examining how a New Zealand (NZ) rabbits hair color is determined by a combination of multiple genes and their allele pairings. The combination of allele pairings of each gene act in conjunction with other genes to produce a variety of different colors and patterns. A rabbit has only two possible pigments that can be expressed in its hair, dark brown and yellow. The absence of both pigments results in albinism (white fur). All of the possible hair colors in a rabbit's hair shaft are simply combinations of these pigments or lack thereof. This genetic expression can appear on the same or different hairs, in certain patterns, and in different intensities. Because we are going to be looking specifically at the genetic makeup of the New Zealand breed, there will be some genetic color traits found in other breeds that are not present in New Zealand's.

In NZ rabbits, as with most breeds, there are 10 genes (A, B, D, C, E, En Du, Si, V and W) each with multiple alleles (gene variants) that determine the primary color and depth of a rabbit's coat. There are other factors and color modifiers (rufus modifiers, plus/minus) that work in combination with these genes and their allele's to control the intensity and or depth of certain colors and or patterns. These color modifiers are not single genes, but multiple ones that work in combination to create a specific color pattern.

A-Series Genes: Agouti (A_) allele, and Self (a_) allele

Possible Allele Pairings: Agouti Rabbits (AA, Aa), Self Colored Rabbits (aa)

The A-Series of genes has only two possible possibilities in NZ rabbits, agouti (A_) or self (aa). While other breeds carry the Tan (a^t) allele, purebred NZ rabbits do not.

The agouti (A_) allele has complete dominance over the self (a_) allele. It produces a rabbit with a white or cream (depending on modifiers) hair color on the belly, eye circles and inner ear, and the rest of the hairs will be banded. So when you separate the hairs and closer examine them you will usually see three distinct color rings. The outermost color ring is determined by the B-series and D-series genes and their allele's (see below), the middle ring will generally be white to bright yellow, and the bottom ring will be white to slate gray. This genome is responsible for the “natural” or “normal” color of wild rabbits. In New Zealand rabbits this color pattern is often called chestnut.

When two recessive self (aa) alleles are paired together it produces a NZ rabbit that has a coat completely made of one color. Therefore, a rabbit with a self (aa) allele pairing is bred with another rabbit with the self (aa) allele pairing, they should never produce any agouti offspring. If you are looking to breed for consistency of color in your heard, then it is important that you acquire both male and female rabbits with a self (aa) gene. The self color is sometimes called 'solid' by some breeders.

B-Series Of Genes: Black (B_) allele or Brown (b_) allele

Possible Allele Pairings: Black Colored Rabbits (BB, Bb), Brown Colored Rabbits (bb)

Almost all rabbits regardless of breed will carry are either the black (B_) or brown (bb) allele. The B-series gene then determines whether the rabbits base coat color is black or brown. Because the black (B_) allele has complete dominance over the brown (b_) allele. Black is the most common color, as the allele pairings (BB) or (Bb) will always produce a black or blue rabbit (see NZ Blue later in this article), while the recessive (bb) allele pairing will always produce a brown rabbit. Therefore, if two rabbits both have the recessive brown (bb) allele pairing they will never produce any black offspring. If any pair of rabbits produce brown offspring, then both the buck and doe must have had at least one brown (b_) allele.

Some rabbits look like they have a brown coat, but they are not really brown. The most common example of this is the agouti (see above), sometimes called the “natural” or “normal” color of rabbits. While an agouti or cottontail rabbit may appear to be brown in color, their coat is actually made of different layers of banded phoemelanin (yellow) and eumelanin (dark brown) hairs. This combination of colors may give the appearance of brown rabbit, but a brown rabbit must have the (bb) allele pairing.

C-Series Of Genes: Complete (C_) allele, Incomplete (c_) allele

Possible Allele Pairings: Complete Colored Rabbits (CC, Cc), Albino Rabbits (cc)

The C-series of genes determines whether a rabbits coat has complete color or no color. The complete (C_) allele is dominate to the incomplete (c_) allele. The dominant complete (C_) allele allows all four of the dark and all three of the yellow pigments to be present in the hair shaft. This allows for full color development of the rabbits coat and works with the E-series of genes and their alleles to produce ticking or steel tipped colors in rabbits that carry the agouti (A_) allele. The New Zealand Black (NZB) is an example of a rabbit that carries the complete dominant allele. When a rabbit receives two incomplete or recessive (c_) alleles from it's parents it is classified as an albino. The recessive (cc) allele pairing not only blocks all the color of all the pigments along the hair shaft, it blocks all expression of color in the rabbit producing a white rabbit with red eyes (REW). The New Zealand White (NZW) rabbit because it has the recessive (cc) allele pairing has a coat as well as eye color that lacks any color pigment. They are in essence albinos, however they are carriers of all the other color allele's you just cannot physically see them. You may however see some of these allele's show up in their offspring when bred to a non-white rabbit.

D-Series Of Genes: Dense (D_) allele or Dilute (d_) allele

Possible Allele Pairings: Dense Coat (DD, Dd), Dilute Coat (dd)

The D-series of genes determines the depth of color of the coat of the rabbit. Dense (D_) has complete dominance over dilute (d_), rabbits with at least one dense (D_) allele have full color shades that are are darker (black or chestnut), and generally have brown eyes. Rabbits with a dilute (d_) allele have a lighter more sedated or dilute colored pigment in the hair shaft causing the coat to be lighter in color. Any combination of allele pairing in which there is at least one dense allele (DD, Dd) will produce a rabbit with a dense coat with (DD) being the darker of the two. Rabbits with the dilute (dd) pairing have the lightest or most dilute coat color. If you want to increase the depth of coat color in your rabbit's bloodline, then breeding a rabbit with a (DD) allele can help you accomplish this while breeding a rabbit with a dilute (dd) allele pairing will soften or mute the color.

When a rabbit with a dilute (dd) allele pairing also carries one of the black (BB, Bb) allele pairs, the coat color is changed or diluted from black to blue and causes the eye to be gray-blue. So we see that the B-series gene and the D-series gene when combined can produce a totally different color of rabbit. Breeders of NZ's have been developing a genetic line of New Zealand Blue's (NZBL) for a few years now, but this color has not been approved by the ARBA so there is no breed standard as of yet. Therefore any rabbit that is blue in color must have a complete dilute (dd) allele pairing.

E-Series Of Genes: Steel Extension (Es_) allele, Normal Extension (E_) allele,

Non-extension (e_) allele

Possible Allele Pairings: Steel Tipped Rabbits (EsEs, EsE, Ese), Black Rabbits (EE, Ee), Red Rabbits (ee)

The E-series of genes work in combination with the C-series of genes and the rufus modifier to make a variety of small and subtle changes to the pigments in the rabbits hair shaft that determines it's overall coat color. There is a lot going on with this gene series; not only are there six possible allele pairings (EsEs, EsE, Ese, EE, Ee, and ee), there is more than one dominant gene although there is a specific order of dominance that has to be taken into consideration.

In E-series genes, the steel extension (Es_) allele is dominate to the normal extension (E_) allele, which is dominant to the non-extension (ee) allele. The (Es_) allele works in combination with the agouti (A_) allele and is responsible for producing the ticking or steel patterns (Gold or Cinnamon tipped) in some NZ rabbits. This combination of (A_, Es_) alleles work together to accentuate or darken the characteristic agouti type landmarks (eye circles, triangle at nape of neck, feet, legs and the inside of the ears) of some rabbits. So in order for a NZ doe to produce kits with steel characteristics (tipped hair coloring) either the buck or the doe must carry an agouti (A_) allele. If both rabbits in the breeding pair carry the self colored (aa) allele pair, they cannot produce kits with steel tipped fur. In NZ rabbits steel-tipped kits are most often seen when a NZR (which carries the agouti gene) is bred with a self (aa) colored rabbit. Obviously a NZ chestnut agouti has the potential to produce steel tipped kits, but most breeders who sell breeding stock do not keep chestnuts as part of their breeding program.

The normal extension (E_) allele allows the complete expression of dark black/brown pigment in the hair shaft (New Zealand Black). You have to remember while the (E_) allele allows the complete expression of the black/brown color, it is not the dominant allele here, rather it is recessive to the steel (Es_) allele that is the most dominant allele of the series.

While the (E_) allele allows complete expression of the black/brown color, the non-extension (e_) allele when paired (ee) together removes or suppresses all or most of the black or brown pigment in the hair shaft leaving yellow or orange producing a New Zealand Red (NZR) rabbit.

En-Series Of Genes: English Spotting (En_) allele, Self Colored (en_) allele

Possible Allele Pairings: Charlie Pattern (EnEn), Broken Pattern (Enen), and No Pattern (enen)

In the En-series of genes (sometimes called “plus/minus” or “blanket/spot”), the English spotting (En_) allele is dominant to the self colored (en_) allele. The (Enen) allele pairing produces normal spotting of the rabbits coat, rabbits with this allele pairing are known as 'brokens'. The (EnEn) gene pairings produce less spotting of the rabbits coat than the (Enen) allele pairings, with the focus of the spotting generally around the head area. Rabbits with the (EnEn) allele pairing are known as 'charlies'. The final possible allele pairing is (enen) which as mentioned causes the hair to have normal coloring without spotting.

In addition, the allele pairings of En-series gene work in combination with the allele pairings of the C-series gene and other color markers to make a variety of small and subtle changes to the color patterns seen in NZ 'broken' and NZ 'charlie' rabbits. The amount and location of the spotting in 'broken' and 'charlies' can also be affected by other color modifiers.

The Other Genes (Du Si, V, and W)

Du-Series Of Genes: Absence of Dutch pattern (Du_) allele, White Belt Dutch Pattern (du_) allele

Possible Allele Parings: Solid Color Rabbits (DuDu), (Dudu), Dutch Pattern Rabbits (dudu)

The (Du_) color gene represents the Dutch color pattern. In a Dutch pattern the front of the face , front part of the body, and rear paws are white, the rest of the rabbit has colored fur. The Dutch pattern (Du_) allele is dominant to the white belt Dutch pattern (du_) allele. The (DuDu and Dudu) allele pairings are present in solid colored rabbits causing no dutch patterns. All pure breed NZ rabbits are (DuDu). Since we are specifically talking about genetic coloring and patterns in NZ rabbits, this is all we need to know about this gene.

Si-Series Of Genes: Non-Silvering (Si_) allele, Silver (si_) allele

Possible Allele Parings: No Silver Color (SiSi), Silver colored tips (sisi)

The Si-series of Genes is determines whether the rabbits coat has white and/or silver tipped hairs intermingled throughout the rabbits coat. The (Si_) allele is dominant to the (si_) allele. Rabbits with the (SiSi) allele pairings have normal colored coats (no white or silver tipped hairs), while the recessive (sisi) allele pairing produces white and silver tipped hairs intermingled throughout the rabbits coat. All pure breed NZ rabbits have the normal (SiSi) allele pairing and therefore have no white or silver tipped hairs caused by this Si-series gene. Since we are specifically talking about genetic coloring in NZ rabbits, this is all we need to know about this gene.

V-Series Of Genes: Normal Coat (V_) allele, No Color (v_) allele

Possible allele Pairings: Normal coat (VV), Vienna Carrier (Vv), Blue Eyed White (vv)

The V-series of gene (a.k.a Vienna White) produces a rabbit with a normal coat color. As with most allele's the (V_) allele is dominant to the (v_) allele. Almost all rabbits carry the (VV) gene pairing which produce a normal coat color. The recessive (vv) gene pairing produces a blue-eyed white (BEW) rabbit, while the (Vv) pairing indicates that the rabbit is a carrier for the Vienna White gene. All NZ rabbits carry the (VV) gene, there are no blue-eyed NZ rabbits so none of the breed can carry the (Vv) or (vv) gene pairing. Since we are specifically talking about genetic coloring in NZ rabbits, this is all we need to know about this gene.

W-Series Of Genes: Normal Width (W_) allele, Double Width (ww) allele

Possible allele Pairings: (WW), (Ww), and (ww)

The dominant normal width (W_) gene produces a yellow or white agouti color band in the hair shaft producing a normal coloring. The recessive double width (ww) gene doubles the width of the yellow or white agouti band in the hair shaft causing the rabbit to have the characteristic agouti pattern areas such as: eye circles, triangle at the nape of the neck, feet, and legs, as well as the inside of the ears and belly (typical of the new Zealand Red).

Modifier Genes

The Rufus Modifier (polygene):

It is unique in that it is a stand alone gene and does not rely on any other particular allele. As it's name implies, this gene modifier works in combination with other genes to intensify the red/orange color of the agouti coat in New Zealand Red (NZR) rabbit's. A NZR rabbit with multiple rufus modifiers will have a darker, richer color red coat. A NZR with fewer rufus modifiers will have lighter, duller red color. The rufus modifiers are denoted as a number of plus (+) signs at the end of the basic genome of red colored rabbits.

So here is where it gets a little sketchy. Most of the information I can find simply lists what the rufus polygene does, but does not give a definite idea of the number of rufus modifiers found in NZ rabbits, however my best educated guess is that there are five. So how did I come to this conclusion? The British Rabbit Council (BRC) actually lists the genome and breed standard for red rabbits on there website as: A_B_C_D_ee +++ rufus modifiers. From this information along with other information I have read, I believe that the NZR can have up to five rufus modifiers (+++++) with three (+++) being in the middle or the breed standard. If this is the case, then a NZR rabbit with five (+++++) rufus modifiers would have the most intense red color, and a NZR with two (++) or less would have a very light washed out color red.

Most Intense Red Color: (+++++)

Balanced Red Color: (+++)

Weak Red Color: (+) or (++)

Plus/Minus Modifier Genes

The plus/minus modifier genes work with the En, Du, and V genes to increase or decrease the amount of spots or patterns of a rabbits coat. The more plus modifiers that rabbit has, the more spots or colored hair pattern they will have, the more minus modifiers your rabbit has, the fewer amount of spots or colored hair pattern they will have.

Color Intensifier Modifiers

The color intensifier modifiers. These modifiers can either darken the spots of color and or the overall color of the rabbits coat, or lighten it to a more diluted shade. I will have to admit that I cannot find any additional information on what particular types of color intensifier modifiers there are New Zealand rabbits. Perhaps if I purchased a book that does a through in depth study of rabbit genetics it would mention what exactly these modifiers are, but at this point this is all the information that I could find on the subject.

New Zealand Rabbit Breed Basic Genome or Genotypes

Below are the listed basic genomes or genotypes for the NZ breed of rabbits with all 10 color genes represented. As all NZ rabbits carry the (DuDu), (SiSi) and (VV) allele pairings you could drop these from the listing (must people do) but for the purposes of this article, I wanted to try and give your the most information possible regarding the breed.

Agouti (Chestnut): A_, B_, C_, D_, E_, En_, DuDu, SiSi, VV, W_

Black: aa, B_, C_, D_, E_, En, DuDu, SiSi, VV, W_

Blue: aa, B_, C_, dd, E_, En_, DuDu, SiSi, VV, W_

Red: A_, B_, C_, D_, ee, En_, DuDu, SiSi, VV, ww +++

White: A_, B_, cc, D_, E_, En_, DuDu, SiSi, VV, W_

The Brokens:

Black: aa, B_, C_, D_, E_, Enen, DuDu, SiSi, VV, W_

Blue: aa, B_, C_, dd, E_, Enen, DuDu, SiSi, VV, W_

Red: A_, B_, C_, D_, ee, Enen, DuDu, SiSi, VV, ww +++

The Charlies:

Black: aa, B_, C_, D_, E_, EnEn, DuDu, SiSi, VV, W_

Blue: aa, B_, C_, dd, E_, EnEn, DuDu, SiSi, VV, W_

Red: A_, B_, C_, D_, ee, EnEn, DuDu, SiSi, VV, ww +++

Conclusion

So there are 10 color genes plus a variety of color modifiers that contribute to make up your rabbits coat color. The reality of the NZ rabbit makeup is that since (according to my research) all NZ rabbits carry the (DuDu), (VV), and (SiSi) allele pairings, most people do not examine these genes when they are determining the genome or genotype of the NZ rabbit. It was goal in this article however to give you the most in depth information possible so that you could examine your livestock and begin to understand the genetic makeup of the NZ rabbit. In the third and final article of the series 'Putting It All Together', I will show you how to put this information together to determine the possible genetic genome of your rabbits without having to do any DNA testing. It may not be as accurate as a DNA test, but it the tried and true technique that has been used by breeders for hundreds of years, way before DNA was even discovered.

Now I am not a geneticist, rather just a humble breeder of New Zealand rabbits that happens to have a medical background so do understand something about genetics. Having said that, I have tried to make sure the information provided in this article is as accurate as possible. If you see an error in my conclusions and have additional information regarding the subject, please feel free to leave me feedback so that we can discuss your findings. As always, if you have found this article interesting or informational please share it with your friends. Don't forget to follow us on Facebook or on Google+ for the latest articles on our blog related to raising your own meat rabbits.

Other Related Articles:

New Zealand Rabbit Genetics Part 1: Dominant And Recessive Genes.

New Zealand Rabbit Genetics Part 3: Putting It All Together.

Additional References:

Stewart, Eric, Rabbit Color Genetics (ARBA Article Of The Month 2012)

Rabbit Genetics: The Basics Are Easy To Understand.

Rabbit Genetics: A Genetics Primer.

Rabbit Color Genotypes Chart: 144 rabbit Color Coat Colors and Their Genotypes.

British Rabbit Council (BRC) Website.

New Zealand Rabbit Genetics: Dominant And Recessive Gene's

Just as in humans, a rabbits chromosomes are strings of DNA that act as building blocks or blueprints that determines the final characteristics or traits of the animal. Each chromosome has an individual spot or location (loci) in which a specific gene is attached. When two chromosomes combine together they form a chromosomal pairing in which each chromosome supplies one gene to make a genetic pair. These gene pairings then act together, alone or in combination with other genes and modifiers to determine a rabbits overall coat and hair appearance. To be more accurate, each gene is further categorized by it's specific function or property known as alleles (which are different versions of the same gene). So for the remainder of these three articles we will refer to the individual gene's variations as alleles.

This is of course a pretty basic statement, and you could examine the structure of DNA and chromosomes until your eyes glaze over, but suffice it to say all you need to know is that both the buck and the doe each contribute one chromosome to their offspring. These chromosomes when paired together each supply one part of a gene (allele) pair that individually or in combination with other allele's determine their offspring's appearance (body shape, ear size, coat color and patterns etc…). Before we get into the second article in this series, you need to understand a few terms as well as understand how the gene's allele's when paired together work to determine your rabbits final coat color and pattern characteristics.

First of all, every allele is classified as either 'dominant' or 'recessive'. For scientific notational purposes all allele's classified as dominant are represented by a capitol letter, while their recessive counterpart(s) are represented by a uncapitalized letters. A dominant allele is just that, it dominates the pairing. For any pairing in which there is at least one dominant allele, the characteristics of that dominant allele almost always supersedes those of the recessive allele. Most dominant allele's express themselves completely suppressing any characteristics of the recessive allele. When this happens it is called complete dominance. However, recessive allele's can modify the expression of the dominant allele making subtle changes to the overall genetic outcome. When this happens to relationship of the dominant allele in regards to the recessive allele is called incomplete dominance. In addition, an allele pair can be made up of two recessive allele's which may produce a totally different outcome.

So what exactly does all this dominant and recessive gene mumbo jumbo mean? To keep it simple, a rabbits dominant allele traits are visually apparent over a recessive allele. That means you can see them when you look at the rabbit. A rabbit's recessive allele traits are not visually apparent. That means the characteristics of the allele are there, but you cannot visually see them.

As a quick example of how gene dominance works we are going to examine the B-series gene whose allele pairings are responsible for producing black, blue (we will discuss blue coloring in our second article), and brown hair colors in rabbits. When it comes to color, almost all rabbits will carry either the black or brown allele.

There are only two B-series gene allele's black or brown. The combination of these two allele's determine whether the rabbits base coat color is going to be black or brown. Since black is the dominant allele in this pair it is represented by the capitol letter 'B', because brown is the recessive allele in this pair it is represented by the uncapitolized letter 'b'. As the B-series gene is made up of a combination of these two dominant and or recessive alleles, when writing them we indicate the dominant black allele as (B_), and the recessive brown allele as (b_). We use the '_' to denote the second allele which is absent in a paring when we do not know what it is yet.

As mentioned earlier, the buck and the doe each supply one chromosome to their offspring to complete the chromosome's genetic pairing. As the B-series gene has only two allele's black (B_) and brown (b_) there are only three possible allele combinations. Their offspring can have two dominant black allele's (BB), one dominant black allele and one recessive brown allele (Bb), or two recessive brown allele's (bb). Because black (B_) has complete dominance over brown (b_), any combination of these allele's in which there is at least one black allele (BB, or Bb) will result in black offspring. When two recessive brown (b_) alleles complete the pair (bb) then the offspring will be brown.

Terms Or Definitions

Alleles: Are different versions of the same gene that can occupy the same position on a particular chromosome and control the same characteristic such as hair or eye color. Rabbits are diploid organisms because they have two alleles, one at each genetic locus, with one allele inherited from each parent. In our previous example, we examined the B-series gene that could made up of pairs of either black (B_) alleles, brown (bb) alleles or a combination of the two.

Chromosome: A string of DNA made up of individual points (or loci) called genes. Rabbits cells contain two sets of chromosomes, one set inherited from the mother (doe) and one from the father (buck). These chromosomes combine together to make pairs in which they share genes.

Genes: Are the working subunits of DNA. They hold the blueprints or genetic instructions that determine the rabbits genetic makeup (body size, composition, hair color etc.) Genes come in multiple variations called allele's which make up the gene pairing.

Conclusion

This is just a quick example to show you how a chromosome's genes (and all it's allele variants) work together to determine one color aspect of your rabbits potential coat color. Now that you understand the 'lingo' it's time to look at are second article 'New Zealand Rabbit Genetics Part 2: Hair Color: It's In The Genes' for in in depth look at how to determine the color characteristics of your breeding rabbit's and what to expect when you breed specific color combinations of New Zealand Rabbits. I know there may be a lot of new terms that many people are not familiar with when it come to genetics and I will try and keep this information as simple as I can. Maybe the following line drawing will make my ramblings more clear. As always, if you have found this article interesting or informational please share it with your friends. Don't forget to follow us on Facebook or on Google+ for the latest articles on our blog related to raising your own meat rabbits.

In a nutshell:

Two individual chromosomes, each come from each parent.

• These chromosomes combine to make one chromosomal pair in the offspring's cells.
  • This chromosome pair Is made up of multiple genes (A, B, C, D, etc…)
    • These genes are made up of individual genetic variations called allele's.
      • The allele's of the B-series gene that we examined in this article were black (B_) and brown (b_).

Related Articles:

New Zealand Rabbit Genetics Part 2: Coat Color: It's In The Genes.

New Zealand Rabbit Genetics Part 3: Putting It All Together.


Additional References:

Stewart, Eric, Rabbit Color Genetics (ARBA Article Of The Month 2012)

Rabbit Genetics: The Basics Are Easy To Understand.

Rabbit Genetics: A Genetics Primer.

Rabbit Color Genotypes Chart: 144 rabbit Color Coat Colors and Their Genotypes.

Meat Yields

In my article 'Freezer Camp', I talked about the tools we use and some of the specific techniques we use when dispatching and butchering our rabbits here at the TAP Rabbitry and Homestead. In this article I am going to talk about how we process our rabbits and the the amount of meat yield on the four 16 week old New Zealand Cinnamon Tipped Steel's that I butchered when I was writing the article 'Freezer Camp'. I have probably butchered somewhere between 50 to 75 animals during our three years of raising rabbits here on the homestead and during that time my processing techniques have changed somewhat. When we first started out raising rabbits I broke down the whole carcass dividing it into four separate categories: 1) front legs, 2) hindquarters, 3) back loin or tenderloin, and 4) the belly meat. The remaining bones of the carcass were then boiled down and the meat removed from the bones. This meat was then pressured canned in it's own broth for use in soups, stews, casseroles, and cold rabbit (chicken) salad. Over the last year I have somewhat changed my focus and now simply break my carcasses down into three basic categories: 1) hindquarters, 2) back loin or tenderloin, and 3) de-boned meat for sausage. The front or fore legs are added to the pot with the bones after they have been de-boned and are then boiled down and the remaining meat and broth is pressure canned for future use. I still on occasion keep a couple of whole rabbits for the freezer, but for the most part this is how we process them here at the rabbitry.

Breaking Down The Carcass

If you have ever broken down a whole chicken into edible portions, then you can break down the carcass of a rabbit. To be honest there is not really a whole lot of difference in the way the two types of carcasses are cut up for cooking. I have been fortunate in that I have more than eighteen years of restaurant experience and culinary training and have broken down the carcasses of chicken, turkeys, ducks, goats, sheep, pigs, and small game such as squirrels. If you have done none of these, then finding a mentor or someone with butchering experience is a great way to learn this necessary skill. If you cannot find a mentor or anyone in your area that raises rabbits, then ask the breeder that you bought your breeding stock from if you can help them the next time they butcher. Be proactive, do not make the mistake by waiting until you have rabbits that need to be butchered before asking for help to learn how to butcher and or breakdown a carcass efficiently.

Meat Yields

The one question I seem to get asked most often and one I see most often on rabbit forums and on Facebook rabbit groups is “how much meat can I expect to get from a meat rabbit?” This entirely depends on the age of the rabbits being butchered and how they are processed. So to that extent I will try and explain to you how the determine the possible meat yields of rabbits processed at home. So as I mentioned earlier, I butchered four pure breed New Zealand rabbits (2 bucks, 2 does) and the carcasses were broken down into hindquarters, loins, de-boned sausage meat, and the bones were then boiled down and the meat removed. When I talk about meat yields, I am talking about the actual weight of the meat after all processing is completed. I am not talking about “hanging or dressed” weight which is the weight of a carcass after it has been gutted and cleaned and weighed with the bone-in. What I am talking about is what is called the “retail or edible” weight of the animal. The edible or retail weight is the the actual amount of usable meat removed from the carcass which may or may not include some of the bone after processing.

The four rabbits that we butchered averaged just over 5lbs each (total weight of 336 ounces). I will admit up front that I did not weigh the carcasses after they were dressed to get a hanging or “dressed” weight, rather my focus was on the final retail or packaging weight. Once processed, the final amount of usable meat or retail yield of these four rabbits was 164.2 ounces or 48.8% retail weight (164 / 336 x 100 = 48.8%). I have included the following list of portions and their weights for you to examine.

8 Hindquarters, vacuum sealed into 2 packages of 4, total weight 68.8 ounces.

8 Back or tenderloins, vacuum sealed in 1 package, total weight 19.4 ounces.

Meat de-boned and vacuum sealed to make sausage, total weight 54.0 ounces.

Meat removed from bones after boiling to make soup 22.0 ounces

I have listed the industry average yields of processed cattle, pork, and poultry just for comparison. There will be some slight variation related to the breed and age of the animal but on average these yield percentages are highly accurate and considered the industry standard. I have included these examples so that you can compare and contrast your rabbits yields with that of other animals. As you can see the final retail weight of the rabbits (164.2 ounces) that we butchered is comparable to that of commercially butchered pork and beef. If you butcher and breakdown your own pork and beef carcasses your yields may vary.

TAP Rabbitry New Zealand Rabbits, hanging weight unknown, 48.8% retail or packaged weight.

Cattle produce on average 55 – 65% of hanging weight, and 45 – 50% retail weight

Pork produce on average 65 – 75% of hanging weight, and 50 – 55% retail weight.

Poultry produce on average 70 – 75% of hanging weight, and 70 – 75% retail weight.*

* Poultry is the only example listed which is sold completely bone in at your local supermarket, therefore their retail weight tends to be the same as their hanging or dressed weight. Portions of chicken that are de-bone and prepackaged have a retail weight of approximately 60 – 70%.

Conclusion

Raising livestock to help feed your family or supplement your income is not difficult. It does take some hands on work on your part. On average you can expect the rabbits you raise to produce the same percentage of meat yields as pork or beef (about 50%). Because rabbit is all white meat it is very lean and healthy when compared to beef and or pork. And because of it's size, rabbit is a whole lot easier to manage than pork or cattle and they take up quite a bit less room which is a “win win” situation in my book. I hope this article has shed some light on the kind of meat yields you can expect from your New Zealand, Californian, and American meat rabbits. As always, we ask that if you find this information interesting that you please share it with your friends on Facebook and Google+. Don't forget to send us a friend request on Facebook and Google+. You can also subscribe to our blog so that you do not miss any of our new articles or our notices regarding new rabbit's that are for sale.

References:

Ask The Meatman: Beef Carcass Breakdown.

Cornell University, Small Farms Program: Yields And Dressing Percentages.

OklahomaDepartment Of Agriculture, Food, & Forestry: Food Safety DivisionMeat Inspection Services.

Texas Agricultural Extension Service: Cost And Yield Comparisons Of Ready-To-Cook Chicken Products

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Cooking Rabbit, Age Matters.

Sending Your Rabbits To Freezer Camp 

Making Rabbit Sausage: Brautwurst

Making Rabbit Sausage: Spanish Chorizo

Sending The Bunnies To Freezer Camp!

If you raise meat rabbits for you and your family as a meat source, as a small commercial venture or a combination of both, there will come a time when you will need to butcher some of your rabbits. Here at the TAP Rabbitry, we primarily raise meat rabbits as a healthy food source. We do sell breeders when we can to help pay our feed cost, but that is not our primary focus. While we will keep a small amount of inventory past 12 weeks of age, most of the livestock that we do not sell gets butchered at about 12 weeks (3 months of age). That means that we butcher on average about three or four times a year depending on the number of breeders we have active at the time. The number of rabbits that are butchered during each session depends of the size and number of litters that our does have produced during the last few months.

In addition to butchering young rabbits, every breeder will have occasion to butcher older rabbits that have for one reason or another just earned themselves a place in the freezer. We have had to butcher a doe who no matter how many times, or with which buck she was bred, only produced 2 kits with each litter. We have also had to butcher both bucks and does that just would not breed for whatever reason. And of course you may have to dispatch a sick rabbit on occasion. So as I mentioned three or four times a year we send the rabbits to 'Freezer Camp'. Not a term I coined, but one my wife saw somewhere so we adopted it and that is what we call our dispatching and butchering process.

Breeders Note: While I have seen on some of the rabbit breeding and homestead forums on the world wide web that some people butcher sick animals and then consume them, we do not nor would I ever recommend this process. Regardless of the illness, sick animals are not recommended for human consumption.

So, welcome to 'Freezer Camp'. In this article I am going to talk about the tools we use and some of the specific techniques we use when dispatching and butchering our rabbits here at the TAP Rabbitry and Homestead. I am by no means a professional when it comes to butchering rabbits. I have probably butchered somewhere between 50 to 75 animals, not really a huge number. Rather my skill comes in the form of breaking down the carcass and cooking of the animal as I preformed a lot of this type of work in my 18 years in the restaurant business. I mention this only because there are a lot of different ways to dispatch and butcher rabbits and many people have their own specific techniques or style that they prefer to use. I am a firm believer that you find the process that works best for for you and eventually with a bit of practise you will become quite proficient at butchering your own rabbits.

Tools Of the Trade

A couple of tools that have become integral parts of my butchering process are my fillet knife, a pair of pruning sheers, and my rabbit gambrel (animal hanger) in addition to a sturdy, portable table and a cooler with ice in which to pack the freshly butchered rabbits. When we first started raising rabbits I tried an assortment of traditional butchering knives before I found a knife that I was happy with. After watching my friend and fellow breeder Ronda Jones dispatch a few rabbits using a Rapala fish fillet knife, I knew I had found the knife for me. I chose the smaller 6-inch knife available for about $13.00 at my local Wal-Mart and it has been the best knife I have used for butchering rabbits and small game. A fillet knife has a long thin flexible blade, and while Ronda uses a longer more flexible knife, I find that the 6-inch version has just the right amount of strength and flexibility for my needs.

To remove the front legs and split to pelvis (makes it easier to remove the gastrointestional tract), I use a pair of Corona bypass hand pruning sheers. These sheers are all steel construction and cut through bone cleanly and with ease. In addition, I use these sheers in the garden and they are fantastic. You can find them online or at your local Lowe's for about $21.00. My friend and fellow breeder Steve Coyne author of the 'Texas Rabbit Barn',and 'I Grow Vegetables' blog's turned me on to these sheers, and they are worth every penny. One pair will truly last you a lifetime, unless of course you lose them. One tool, two uses, gotta love it!

There are many ways to hang your rabbits after you have dispatched them so that you can actually start the butchering process. The tool that I use is a home made version of a gambrel (animal hanger) that my friend Steve Coyne was using when I first got into raising rabbits. After using the one that Steve had I knew I could make my own out of scrap PVC and some wire, and that is exactly what I did. The gambrel uses the weight of the rabbit to tighten the wire thereby holding it securely in place, and it's unique design allows you to rotate or turn the carcass as needed during the butchering process. I find using the gambrel is earier and faster for me than trying to make a cut in the leg and then hanging the rabbit by it's tendons. If you are a hunter or know someone who is then you have probably seen or used a gambrel to dress out deer or wild feral hogs.

Dispatching Techniques

There are a myriad of different ways to dispatch your rabbits and they all have one specific goal and that is to quickly and humanely kill the rabbit with the least amount of pain and stress as possible. My father grew up on a farm, and my grandfather raised rabbits as an additional food source for his family. When I was growing up, I watched my father use what I call the 'Karate Chop' method to dispatch rabbits. He would take the edge of his hand and holding the rabbit by it's hind legs deliver a swift blow to the back of the neck of the rabbit right behind the head. I have never been comfortable with this technique, but my father and grandfather were quite proficient at it. A variation of this technique is to use a steel pipe or heavy wooden rod or broomstick in place of your hand. My issue with this technique is that if you miss, or do not deliver a fatal blow, the rabbit not only suffers, but makes a painful crying noise much like that of a baby. Miss once and you will never try this technique again.

Cervical dislocation is another effective method employed by a lot of breeders. The cheap and simple method is to place the rabbit on the ground holding it by it's hind legs then place a large wooden rod across the back of it's neck then place a foot on each side of the rod as you pull back on the rabbits hind legs to dislocate the spine and instantly kill the rabbit. My friend Ronda Jones dispatches her rabbits this way and she is quite effective at it. I found this technique to be to cumbersome for me especially if you have a frightened or spastic rabbit on your hands. I like the idea of cervical dislocation and it is quite popular. There is a commercial product called the 'Rabbit Wringer' that many breeder use to dispatch their rabbits, but it is quite pricey at $70.00. If you can DIY, you can find a number of plans to make your own version of a rabbit wringer on the internet.

The last technique that I am going to talk about is the one we use here at the TAP rabbitry and that is the process of shooting the rabbit in the head. For this procedure I use a .22 caliber air rifle with hollow point hunting pellets. It kills the rabbit quickly and humanely with one shot, that is of course if you do not miss, but this has not been a problem for me. The key when using this technique is to have a small area in which to place the rabbit so that it's movements are minimized ( I use a tote with straw as a 'kill bucket'). I already had a .22 caliber air rifle so this was a technique for which suited me well with no additional outlay of capitol. The Crossman hollow point hunting pellets that I use are cheap $6.47 for 500ct at my local Wal-Mart and are an effective killing pellet. If however, you do not already have a hunting air rifle and had to purchase one, I think you would be better off spending your money an a rabbit wringer.

Breeders Note: When purchasing an air rifle look closely at the caliber of the pellet. Most air rifles used for hunting small game are .22 caliber or larger. While brand and quality matter, you can generally find them at most large big box retailers. The one I use is an inexpensive Beeman, which I have found when hunting small game to be not only accurate but quite effective. I have never used the smaller .177 caliber air rifle for hunting, while it's higher velocity is effective against squirrels and small birds, I am unsure of it's ability to make a clean kill on the larger meat rabbits so I cannot recommend this caliber for dispatching your rabbits.

The Art Of Butchering

This article is not an in depth review on how to butcher a carcass. While I watched my father and grandfather butcher a few rabbits when I was growing up, my father never raised rabbits. We simply moved to often during the 22 years that he was in the Air Force (USAF). Rather I learned by purchasing and reading a couple of books on butchering poultry and small game. In addition, I looked at the multitude of videos on YouTube on how to butcher poultry and rabbits. And while I knew how to effectively break down an animal carcass due to my many years of restaurant experience, the thing that helped me learn this skill the most was helping my friends Steve Coyne and Ronda Jones butcher. Even before my first rabbits were old enough to butcher, I volunteered to help Steve butcher some of his animals so that I could learn from his experience.

Finding a mentor or someone with butchering experience is a great way to learn this necessary skill. If you cannot find a mentor or anyone in your area that raises rabbits, then ask the breeder that you bought your breeding stock from if you can help them the next time they butcher. Be proactive, do not make the mistake by waiting until you have rabbits that need to be butchered before asking for help to learn how to butcher. I helped my friends Steve and Ronda butcher about thirty rabbits on two occasions before any of my livestock was ready to be butchered. I was a whole lot slower then they were, and I still am. However, since that time I have butchered a lot of rabbits, not only my own by many of my friends as well.

I have included some video links with short descriptions of each of the videos below showing how to butcher and process rabbits. The breeder in each video uses a slightly different technique as well as an array of basic butchering tools. There are a lots of other videos on YouTube, but the ones listed in this article will give you an idea of the options and techniques used to butcher your meat breeders. Be forewarned that these videos contain graphic examples of rabbits being butchered. You should not be surprised as this article is about butchering livestock, but if you have young children, you may or may not want them to watch over your shoulder.

Urban Survival Livestock: Raising Rabbits Part 4

One of the first videos I watched on butchering rabbits, and one I still like and recommend. I like this video because it is informative and the breeder uses a dislocation board to dispatch of his rabbits. Just by looking at the picture, you could easily make one yourself out of scrap wood. I have however seen some mixed reviews about using this type of kill board, but the videographer in this video seems to have the technique down.

How To Prepare And Cook A Rabbit: Field to Fork

A video with more emphasis on butchering wild rabbits, as opposed to domesticated meat breeders. Scott's makes this technique look quick and easy and it could easily be adopted by anyone with a small rabbitry. Not so sure about freezing the rabbit with the skin on, but if you wanted too, you could definitely gives this technique a try. There is a reason it has over 1.5 million views.

Daniel Salatin Processes Rabbits at Polyface Farms (Parts 1 & 2)

This two part video series shows a man that can butcher some rabbits using simple techniques. He uses a heavy pipe to stun/kill the rabbits and then hangs them with simple cord. In this series of videos he is talking with people who are doing a tour through their organic farm in Virginia and answering questions while he butchers rabbits. Some good information here and I like his quick and fluid technique.

Conclusion

Raising livestock to help feed your family or supplement your income is not difficult. It does take some hands on work on your part. My wife is an integral part of our rabbitry as she takes care of the rabbits on the days that I have to work. I do all of the butchering and the breaking down of the carcasses, not that she couldn't do it, but because I choose too. If you have ever lived on a farm, or raised livestock, then you know that butchering an animal is not hard. It is the process of dispatching the animal in a humane way is the hardest part about.

Having the necessary tools to perform the job makes the task quite a bit simpler and more enjoyable. You do not need to spend a wad of cash to do a through job. My grandfather dispatched and butchered all of his rabbits using his hands and a simple skinning knife. I choose to shoot mine then butcher them, others I know use cervical dislocation, the choice is a matter of personal preference. The hardest part is getting outside and making yourself do it for the first time. Once you have taken that step, the rest is easy.

In my next article, I will try to answer that one questions I see a lot on Facebook and in the Homesteading forums on the internet regarding the meat yield of butchered meat rabbits. I will also go into detail about how we break down our rabbit carcasses for storage. As always, we ask that if you find this information interesting that you please share it with your friends on Facebook and Google+. Don't forget to send us a friend request on Facebook and Google+. You can also subscribe to our blog so that you do not miss any of our new articles or our notices regarding new rabbit's that are for sale.

Books On The Subject That I Own:

Bezzant, John. Butchering Small Game and Birds: Rabbits, Hares, Poultry and Wild Birds. Ramsbury: Crowood Press, 2012.

Burch, Monte. The Ultimate Guide To Home Butchering: How To Prepare Any Animal Or Bird For The Table Or Freezer. New York, Skyhorse, 2012.

Mettler, John Jr. DVM. Basic Butchering Of Livestock & Game. North Adams: Storey, 2003.

Related Articles:

Cooking Rabbit, Age Matters.

Cooking Rabbit: Age Matters

There are few white meats that are as lean and delicious as rabbit. And while you can substitute rabbit for chicken in many dishes, the techniques for cooking can be slightly different and may require a few extra steps or tweaks. Because rabbit is so lean, overall, slow roasting and simmering techniques tend to produce the best results. Don't get me wrong, I often brine rabbit so that I can grill it or bake it in the oven, however depending on the age of the rabbit, it can sometimes become quite tough. If you are new to raising and cooking rabbit then there are a few things you need to know to help ensure that the meals your prepare with rabbit turn as tender and delicious as you intended them to be.

In this article, I will show you how to choose some of the best techniques for cooking rabbit based on the age of the rabbit. Sounds kind of crazy right? What most consumers do not know is that poultry and rabbit are similarly classified into categories based on the age of the animal. All poultry available for consumption is classified as fryer/broilers (9 to 12 weeks), roasters (3 to 5 months), and stewers (10 months or older). What most of you buy when purchasing chicken at your local supermarket are young hens that are fryers. The package may not specify 'fryers' on the label, however 95% or more of the chicken purchased at your local supermarket are fryers. Fryers are young, tender, and can be cooked with just about any cooking technique with excellent results.

So what has this got to do with rabbit? Well rabbit is classified in the same general way as poultry, and the same rules apply to taste and texture. Commercially raised and butchered rabbit's like their poultry counterparts are generally fryers (about 8 to 12 weeks). However, most Americans who eat rabbit either raise their own rabbits or acquire them via hunting so the age of the animal may vary quite a bit. This matters because whether you raise and butcher your own livestock or simply enjoy the hunt. The age of the animal will have a big impact on the texture and flavor of the dish you wish to cook. So to help you better create the best possible meals out of your rabbit we will examine the four basic classifications of rabbit based on the age of the animal (young fryers, fryers, roasters, and stewers).

Young Fryers: 2 to 3 months

What I like to call young fryers are usually butchered at 8 to 12 weeks (2 to 3 months). Meat rabbits at this age are generally 4 to 5 pounds in weight and will dress out at about 2 to 2 ½ lbs bone in weight. At this age the meat is the most tender and this is the most cost effective age at which to butcher your rabbits. Once they get to 4 months of age your cost benefit ratio of food to meat produced begins to drop dramatically. The flavor of the young fryer is the most mild, and as the classification implies, at this age the rabbit can be substituted for chicken in just about any recipe that you would like including fried rabbit. Rabbit at this age is generally fork tender no matter the cooking process. If you have ever bought commercially butchered rabbit in the supermarket, this is the age at which it is most widely available. Best uses: Grilled, sautéed, braised, deep fat or stir fried, and roasted.

Fryers: 3 to 6 months

As opposed to young fryers, fryers are slightly more mature and usually butchered between 12 to 36 weeks (3 to 4 months). Meat rabbits at this age are generally 5 to 6 pounds in weight and will dress out at about 2 ½ to 3 lbs bone in weight. Some people make no distinction between young fryers and fryers, however as the rabbit begins to age the meat begins to have a greater depth of flavor, and while still tender, it is not quite as tender as a young fryer. For the home rabbitry, rabbits at 6 months are just coming into maturity (healthy breeding age) and your cash outlay to get the rabbits to this size from that of a young fryer may have actually doubled, depending on your feeding program, while the meat produced by the rabbit has not dramatically increased.

As the rabbit gets older it begins to put on more muscle mass. While this increase in muscle mass does mean that it has more meat, the continued growth and use of these muscle fibers as the rabbit ages makes the meat less tender. As with the young fryer the meat is still mild, but not quite as tender, however as the classification implies, at this age the rabbit can be still substituted for chicken in just about any recipe that you would like, especially grilling, but if you like fried rabbit, the young fryer is a better choice. We try and butcher most of out rabbits here at TAP rabbitry before they get to the six month stage, but sometimes you need to keep stock on hand at this age in order to fill the need for customers who want mature breeding pairs or to exchange livestock with other breeders. Best uses: Grilled, sautéed, braised, deep fat or stir fried, baked and roasted.

Roasters: 6 to 12 months

These are your mature rabbits, and are butchered between 36 to 48 weeks (6 to 12 months). Meat rabbits at this age are generally 7 to 10 pounds in weight and will dress out at about 3 ½ to 5 lbs bone in weight. The flavor of this rabbit is really rather nice, however because of it's age, the meat can be quite tough. Rabbits at this age are best roasted or baked over a prolonged period of time to allow the fibers in the muscles to breakdown and become tender. There is nothing quite as delicious as a slow roasted rabbit. If you attempt to fry mature rabbits as you would a young chicken or rabbit fryer you will be disappointed with the results. While the meat will have great flavor, rabbit cooked at this age using high heat techniques such as frying or grilling will most often be tougher than most people prefer.

Here at TAP rabbitry any rabbit which we have not sold after six months goes to what we call “freezer camp”. While we may keep the hindquarters after butchering, at this stage in the animals life most of the meat is de-boned and frozen until we have enough to make into sausage. In addition, we cut up some of the rabbit and then boil it until the meat is tender and falls off the bone. This meat is then packed in it's own broth in mason (canning) jars and processed in a pressure canner so that we have rabbit meat to use in casseroles, soups, and even rabbit salad whenever we want. For information regarding canning rabbit and other wild game or meat, check out my article on 'Canning Rabbit and Poultry'. Best uses: Roasted, baked, boiled, poached, sausage, and canned.

Stewers: 12 months or older

These are your mature rabbits, and are butchered after 12 months of age. Meat rabbits at this age are generally 9 to 12 pounds in weight and will dress out at about 4 ½ to 6 lbs bone in weight. Many breeders will tell you that rabbits of this age have some of the best flavor, the downside to eating mature rabbits is that they can be really tough. Just as with poultry, and old rabbit is a stewing rabbit. The low and slow process of stewing meats helps to breakdown the connective tissue of older animals making them both tender and delicious. As I mentioned these rabbits are generally ones that have either outlived their breeding age or for whatever reason just need to be butchered. We have had an occasional buck or doe here at the TAP rabbitry that either just refused to breed, or continued to have small litters of 2 to 3 rabbits.

Like the roasters, rabbits which we do not stew are either de-boned for sausage or cut up, boiled and then de-boned and then canned in it's own broth in a pressure canner so that we have rabbit meat to use in casseroles, soups, and even rabbit salad whenever we want. For more information regarding stewing meats see my article on 'Moist Heat Cooking Methods' on my Culinary You blog. For recipes on making your own rabbit bratwurst or chorizo sausage, check out my articles on 'Making Bratwurst' and 'Making Spanish Style Chorizo' on our blog. Best uses: Stewed, slow roasted or baked, boiled, sausage, and canned.

Conclusion

Raising your own meat rabbits can be quite rewarding especially if you are concerned about where the food you feed to your family comes from and the conditions in which the animals are treated prior to butchering. When cooking rabbit it is important to take into consideration the age of the animal when trying to decide on a recipe. Remember, stewers make lousy fried rabbit, but they make a great traditional hausenpeffer (German rabbit stew). Fryers on the other hand are great for sautéing, braising and or frying, however the delicate flesh of the fryer can quickly become mushy when cooked using long slow techniques such as roasting, baking and especially stewing. 

Knowing the age of the rabbit you wish to cook can help you to choose the right recipe and or technique to create a tender and juicy meal making you look and feel like a five star Michelin chef. Ok, well maybe that is an overstatement, but I guarantee you that both you and your family will love the flavor and texture of home raised rabbit when cooked properly. As always, we ask that if you find this information interesting that you please share it with your friends on Facebook and Google+. Don't forget to send us a friend request on Facebook and Google+ or subscribe to our blog so that you do not miss any of our new articles or our notices regarding rabbit's that we have available for sale.

Related Articles On Our Blogs:

Moist Heat Cooking Methods (Culinary You)

Canning Rabbit, Poultry and Wild Game (Culinary You)

Making Rabbit Bratwurst (TAP Homestead and Rabbitry)

Making Spanish Style Rabbit Chorizo (TAP Homestead and Rabbitry)