Sunday, June 19, 2016

Meat Yields



In my article 'Freezer Camp', I talked about the tools we use and some of the specific techniques we use when dispatching and butchering our rabbits here at the TAP Rabbitry and Homestead. In this article I am going to talk about how we process our rabbits and the the amount of meat yield on the four 16 week old New Zealand Cinnamon Tipped Steel's that I butchered when I was writing the article 'Freezer Camp'. I have probably butchered somewhere between 50 to 75 animals during our three years of raising rabbits here on the homestead and during that time my processing techniques have changed somewhat. When we first started out raising rabbits I broke down the whole carcass dividing it into four separate categories: 1) front legs, 2) hindquarters, 3) back loin or tenderloin, and 4) the belly meat. The remaining bones of the carcass were then boiled down and the meat removed from the bones. This meat was then pressured canned in it's own broth for use in soups, stews, casseroles, and cold rabbit (chicken) salad. Over the last year I have somewhat changed my focus and now simply break my carcasses down into three basic categories: 1) hindquarters, 2) back loin or tenderloin, and 3) de-boned meat for sausage. The front or fore legs are added to the pot with the bones after they have been de-boned and are then boiled down and the remaining meat and broth is pressure canned for future use. I still on occasion keep a couple of whole rabbits for the freezer, but for the most part this is how we process them here at the rabbitry.


Breaking Down The Carcass

If you have ever broken down a whole chicken into edible portions, then you can break down the carcass of a rabbit. To be honest there is not really a whole lot of difference in the way the two types of carcasses are cut up for cooking. I have been fortunate in that I have more than eighteen years of restaurant experience and culinary training and have broken down the carcasses of chicken, turkeys, ducks, goats, sheep, pigs, and small game such as squirrels. If you have done none of these, then finding a mentor or someone with butchering experience is a great way to learn this necessary skill. If you cannot find a mentor or anyone in your area that raises rabbits, then ask the breeder that you bought your breeding stock from if you can help them the next time they butcher. Be proactive, do not make the mistake by waiting until you have rabbits that need to be butchered before asking for help to learn how to butcher and or breakdown a carcass efficiently.


Meat Yields

The one question I seem to get asked most often and one I see most often on rabbit forums and on Facebook rabbit groups is “how much meat can I expect to get from a meat rabbit?” This entirely depends on the age of the rabbits being butchered and how they are processed. So to that extent I will try and explain to you how the determine the possible meat yields of rabbits processed at home. So as I mentioned earlier, I butchered four pure breed New Zealand rabbits (2 bucks, 2 does) and the carcasses were broken down into hindquarters, loins, de-boned sausage meat, and the bones were then boiled down and the meat removed. When I talk about meat yields, I am talking about the actual weight of the meat after all processing is completed. I am not talking about “hanging or dressed” weight which is the weight of a carcass after it has been gutted and cleaned and weighed with the bone-in. What I am talking about is what is called the “retail or edible” weight of the animal. The edible or retail weight is the the actual amount of usable meat removed from the carcass which may or may not include some of the bone after processing.



The four rabbits that we butchered averaged just over 5lbs each (total weight of 336 ounces). I will admit up front that I did not weigh the carcasses after they were dressed to get a hanging or “dressed” weight, rather my focus was on the final retail or packaging weight. Once processed, the final amount of usable meat or retail yield of these four rabbits was 164.2 ounces or 48.8% retail weight (164 / 336 x 100 = 48.8%). I have included the following list of portions and their weights for you to examine.

8 Hindquarters, vacuum sealed into 2 packages of 4, total weight 68.8 ounces.
8 Back or tenderloins, vacuum sealed in 1 package, total weight 19.4 ounces.
Meat de-boned and vacuum sealed to make sausage, total weight 54.0 ounces.
Meat removed from bones after boiling to make soup 22.0 ounces

I have listed the industry average yields of processed cattle, pork, and poultry just for comparison. There will be some slight variation related to the breed and age of the animal but on average these yield percentages are highly accurate and considered the industry standard. I have included these examples so that you can compare and contrast your rabbits yields with that of other animals. As you can see the final retail weight of the rabbits (164.2 ounces) that we butchered is comparable to that of commercially butchered pork and beef. If you butcher and breakdown your own pork and beef carcasses your yields may vary.

TAP Rabbitry New Zealand Rabbits, hanging weight unknown, 48.8% retail or packaged weight.
Cattle produce on average 55 – 65% of hanging weight, and 45 – 50% retail weight
Pork produce on average 65 – 75% of hanging weight, and 50 – 55% retail weight.
Poultry produce on average 70 – 75% of hanging weight, and 70 – 75% retail weight.*


* Poultry is the only example listed which is sold completely bone in at your local supermarket, therefore their retail weight tends to be the same as their hanging or dressed weight. Portions of chicken that are de-bone and prepackaged have a retail weight of approximately 60 – 70%.



Conclusion

Raising livestock to help feed your family or supplement your income is not difficult. It does take some hands on work on your part. On average you can expect the rabbits you raise to produce the same percentage of meat yields as pork or beef (about 50%). Because rabbit is all white meat it is very lean and healthy when compared to beef and or pork. And because of it's size, rabbit is a whole lot easier to manage than pork or cattle and they take up quite a bit less room which is a “win win” situation in my book. I hope this article has shed some light on the kind of meat yields you can expect from your New Zealand, Californian, and American meat rabbits. As always, we ask that if you find this information interesting that you please share it with your friends on Facebook and Google+. Don't forget to send us a friend request on Facebook and Google+. You can also subscribe to our blog so that you do not miss any of our new articles or our notices regarding new rabbit's that are for sale.


References:







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Thursday, June 16, 2016

Sending The Bunnies To Freezer Camp!



If you raise meat rabbits for you and your family as a meat source, as a small commercial venture or a combination of both, there will come a time when you will need to butcher some of your rabbits. Here at the TAP Rabbitry, we primarily raise meat rabbits as a healthy food source. We do sell breeders when we can to help pay our feed cost, but that is not our primary focus. While we will keep a small amount of inventory past 12 weeks of age, most of the livestock that we do not sell gets butchered at about 12 weeks (3 months of age). That means that we butcher on average about three or four times a year depending on the number of breeders we have active at the time. The number of rabbits that are butchered during each session depends of the size and number of litters that our does have produced during the last few months.

In addition to butchering young rabbits, every breeder will have occasion to butcher older rabbits that have for one reason or another just earned themselves a place in the freezer. We have had to butcher a doe who no matter how many times, or with which buck she was bred, only produced 2 kits with each litter. We have also had to butcher both bucks and does that just would not breed for whatever reason. And of course you may have to dispatch a sick rabbit on occasion. So as I mentioned three or four times a year we send the rabbits to 'Freezer Camp'. Not a term I coined, but one my wife saw somewhere so we adopted it and that is what we call our dispatching and butchering process.



Breeders Note: While I have seen on some of the rabbit breeding and homestead forums on the world wide web that some people butcher sick animals and then consume them, we do not nor would I ever recommend this process. Regardless of the illness, sick animals are not recommended for human consumption.

So, welcome to 'Freezer Camp'. In this article I am going to talk about the tools we use and some of the specific techniques we use when dispatching and butchering our rabbits here at the TAP Rabbitry and Homestead. I am by no means a professional when it comes to butchering rabbits. I have probably butchered somewhere between 50 to 75 animals, not really a huge number. Rather my skill comes in the form of breaking down the carcass and cooking of the animal as I preformed a lot of this type of work in my 18 years in the restaurant business. I mention this only because there are a lot of different ways to dispatch and butcher rabbits and many people have their own specific techniques or style that they prefer to use. I am a firm believer that you find the process that works best for for you and eventually with a bit of practise you will become quite proficient at butchering your own rabbits.



Tools Of the Trade

A couple of tools that have become integral parts of my butchering process are my fillet knife, a pair of pruning sheers, and my rabbit gambrel (animal hanger) in addition to a sturdy, portable table and a cooler with ice in which to pack the freshly butchered rabbits. When we first started raising rabbits I tried an assortment of traditional butchering knives before I found a knife that I was happy with. After watching my friend and fellow breeder Ronda Jones dispatch a few rabbits using a Rapala fish fillet knife, I knew I had found the knife for me. I chose the smaller 6-inch knife available for about $13.00 at my local Wal-Mart and it has been the best knife I have used for butchering rabbits and small game. A fillet knife has a long thin flexible blade, and while Ronda uses a longer more flexible knife, I find that the 6-inch version has just the right amount of strength and flexibility for my needs.

To remove the front legs and split to pelvis (makes it easier to remove the gastrointestional tract), I use a pair of Corona bypass hand pruning sheers. These sheers are all steel construction and cut through bone cleanly and with ease. In addition, I use these sheers in the garden and they are fantastic. You can find them online or at your local Lowe's for about $21.00. My friend and fellow breeder Steve Coyne author of the 'Texas Rabbit Barn',and 'I Grow Vegetables' blog's turned me on to these sheers, and they are worth every penny. One pair will truly last you a lifetime, unless of course you lose them. One tool, two uses, gotta love it!

There are many ways to hang your rabbits after you have dispatched them so that you can actually start the butchering process. The tool that I use is a home made version of a gambrel (animal hanger) that my friend Steve Coyne was using when I first got into raising rabbits. After using the one that Steve had I knew I could make my own out of scrap PVC and some wire, and that is exactly what I did. The gambrel uses the weight of the rabbit to tighten the wire thereby holding it securely in place, and it's unique design allows you to rotate or turn the carcass as needed during the butchering process. I find using the gambrel is earier and faster for me than trying to make a cut in the leg and then hanging the rabbit by it's tendons. If you are a hunter or know someone who is then you have probably seen or used a gambrel to dress out deer or wild feral hogs.


Dispatching Techniques

There are a myriad of different ways to dispatch your rabbits and they all have one specific goal and that is to quickly and humanely kill the rabbit with the least amount of pain and stress as possible. My father grew up on a farm, and my grandfather raised rabbits as an additional food source for his family. When I was growing up, I watched my father use what I call the 'Karate Chop' method to dispatch rabbits. He would take the edge of his hand and holding the rabbit by it's hind legs deliver a swift blow to the back of the neck of the rabbit right behind the head. I have never been comfortable with this technique, but my father and grandfather were quite proficient at it. A variation of this technique is to use a steel pipe or heavy wooden rod or broomstick in place of your hand. My issue with this technique is that if you miss, or do not deliver a fatal blow, the rabbit not only suffers, but makes a painful crying noise much like that of a baby. Miss once and you will never try this technique again.

Cervical dislocation is another effective method employed by a lot of breeders. The cheap and simple method is to place the rabbit on the ground holding it by it's hind legs then place a large wooden rod across the back of it's neck then place a foot on each side of the rod as you pull back on the rabbits hind legs to dislocate the spine and instantly kill the rabbit. My friend Ronda Jones dispatches her rabbits this way and she is quite effective at it. I found this technique to be to cumbersome for me especially if you have a frightened or spastic rabbit on your hands. I like the idea of cervical dislocation and it is quite popular. There is a commercial product called the 'Rabbit Wringer' that many breeder use to dispatch their rabbits, but it is quite pricey at $70.00. If you can DIY, you can find a number of plans to make your own version of a rabbit wringer on the internet.

The last technique that I am going to talk about is the one we use here at the TAP rabbitry and that is the process of shooting the rabbit in the head. For this procedure I use a .22 caliber air rifle with hollow point hunting pellets. It kills the rabbit quickly and humanely with one shot, that is of course if you do not miss, but this has not been a problem for me. The key when using this technique is to have a small area in which to place the rabbit so that it's movements are minimized ( I use a tote with straw as a 'kill bucket'). I already had a .22 caliber air rifle so this was a technique for which suited me well with no additional outlay of capitol. The Crossman hollow point hunting pellets that I use are cheap $6.47 for 500ct at my local Wal-Mart and are an effective killing pellet. If however, you do not already have a hunting air rifle and had to purchase one, I think you would be better off spending your money an a rabbit wringer.



Breeders Note: When purchasing an air rifle look closely at the caliber of the pellet. Most air rifles used for hunting small game are .22 caliber or larger. While brand and quality matter, you can generally find them at most large big box retailers. The one I use is an inexpensive Beeman, which I have found when hunting small game to be not only accurate but quite effective. I have never used the smaller .177 caliber air rifle for hunting, while it's higher velocity is effective against squirrels and small birds, I am unsure of it's ability to make a clean kill on the larger meat rabbits so I cannot recommend this caliber for dispatching your rabbits.


The Art Of Butchering

This article is not an in depth review on how to butcher a carcass. While I watched my father and grandfather butcher a few rabbits when I was growing up, my father never raised rabbits. We simply moved to often during the 22 years that he was in the Air Force (USAF). Rather I learned by purchasing and reading a couple of books on butchering poultry and small game. In addition, I looked at the multitude of videos on YouTube on how to butcher poultry and rabbits. And while I knew how to effectively break down an animal carcass due to my many years of restaurant experience, the thing that helped me learn this skill the most was helping my friends Steve Coyne and Ronda Jones butcher. Even before my first rabbits were old enough to butcher, I volunteered to help Steve butcher some of his animals so that I could learn from his experience.

Finding a mentor or someone with butchering experience is a great way to learn this necessary skill. If you cannot find a mentor or anyone in your area that raises rabbits, then ask the breeder that you bought your breeding stock from if you can help them the next time they butcher. Be proactive, do not make the mistake by waiting until you have rabbits that need to be butchered before asking for help to learn how to butcher. I helped my friends Steve and Ronda butcher about thirty rabbits on two occasions before any of my livestock was ready to be butchered. I was a whole lot slower then they were, and I still am. However, since that time I have butchered a lot of rabbits, not only my own by many of my friends as well.



I have included some video links with short descriptions of each of the videos below showing how to butcher and process rabbits. The breeder in each video uses a slightly different technique as well as an array of basic butchering tools. There are a lots of other videos on YouTube, but the ones listed in this article will give you an idea of the options and techniques used to butcher your meat breeders. Be forewarned that these videos contain graphic examples of rabbits being butchered. You should not be surprised as this article is about butchering livestock, but if you have young children, you may or may not want them to watch over your shoulder.



One of the first videos I watched on butchering rabbits, and one I still like and recommend. I like this video because it is informative and the breeder uses a dislocation board to dispatch of his rabbits. Just by looking at the picture, you could easily make one yourself out of scrap wood. I have however seen some mixed reviews about using this type of kill board, but the videographer in this video seems to have the technique down.



A video with more emphasis on butchering wild rabbits, as opposed to domesticated meat breeders. Scott's makes this technique look quick and easy and it could easily be adopted by anyone with a small rabbitry. Not so sure about freezing the rabbit with the skin on, but if you wanted too, you could definitely gives this technique a try. There is a reason it has over 1.5 million views.



This two part video series shows a man that can butcher some rabbits using simple techniques. He uses a heavy pipe to stun/kill the rabbits and then hangs them with simple cord. In this series of videos he is talking with people who are doing a tour through their organic farm in Virginia and answering questions while he butchers rabbits. Some good information here and I like his quick and fluid technique.


Conclusion

Raising livestock to help feed your family or supplement your income is not difficult. It does take some hands on work on your part. My wife is an integral part of our rabbitry as she takes care of the rabbits on the days that I have to work. I do all of the butchering and the breaking down of the carcasses, not that she couldn't do it, but because I choose too. If you have ever lived on a farm, or raised livestock, then you know that butchering an animal is not hard. It is the process of dispatching the animal in a humane way is the hardest part about.

Having the necessary tools to perform the job makes the task quite a bit simpler and more enjoyable. You do not need to spend a wad of cash to do a through job. My grandfather dispatched and butchered all of his rabbits using his hands and a simple skinning knife. I choose to shoot mine then butcher them, others I know use cervical dislocation, the choice is a matter of personal preference. The hardest part is getting outside and making yourself do it for the first time. Once you have taken that step, the rest is easy.

In my next article, I will try to answer that one questions I see a lot on Facebook and in the Homesteading forums on the internet regarding the meat yield of butchered meat rabbits. I will also go into detail about how we break down our rabbit carcasses for storage. As always, we ask that if you find this information interesting that you please share it with your friends on Facebook and Google+. Don't forget to send us a friend request on Facebook and Google+. You can also subscribe to our blog so that you do not miss any of our new articles or our notices regarding new rabbit's that are for sale.


Books On The Subject That I Own:

Bezzant, John. Butchering Small Game and Birds: Rabbits, Hares, Poultry and Wild Birds. Ramsbury: Crowood Press, 2012.

Burch, Monte. The Ultimate Guide To Home Butchering: How To Prepare Any Animal Or Bird For The Table Or Freezer. New York, Skyhorse, 2012.

Mettler, John Jr. DVM. Basic Butchering Of Livestock & Game. North Adams: Storey, 2003.


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Wednesday, June 1, 2016

Cooking Rabbit: Age Matters




There are few white meats that are as lean and delicious as rabbit. And while you can substitute rabbit for chicken in many dishes, the techniques for cooking can be slightly different and may require a few extra steps or tweaks. Because rabbit is so lean, overall, slow roasting and simmering techniques tend to produce the best results. Don't get me wrong, I often brine rabbit so that I can grill it or bake it in the oven, however depending on the age of the rabbit, it can sometimes become quite tough. If you are new to raising and cooking rabbit then there are a few things you need to know to help ensure that the meals your prepare with rabbit turn as tender and delicious as you intended them to be.

In this article, I will show you how to choose some of the best techniques for cooking rabbit based on the age of the rabbit. Sounds kind of crazy right? What most consumers do not know is that poultry and rabbit are similarly classified into categories based on the age of the animal. All poultry available for consumption is classified as fryer/broilers (9 to 12 weeks), roasters (3 to 5 months), and stewers (10 months or older). What most of you buy when purchasing chicken at your local supermarket are young hens that are fryers. The package may not specify 'fryers' on the label, however 95% or more of the chicken purchased at your local supermarket are fryers. Fryers are young, tender, and can be cooked with just about any cooking technique with excellent results.

So what has this got to do with rabbit? Well rabbit is classified in the same general way as poultry, and the same rules apply to taste and texture. Commercially raised and butchered rabbit's like their poultry counterparts are generally fryers (about 8 to 12 weeks). However, most Americans who eat rabbit either raise their own rabbits or acquire them via hunting so the age of the animal may vary quite a bit. This matters because whether you raise and butcher your own livestock or simply enjoy the hunt. The age of the animal will have a big impact on the texture and flavor of the dish you wish to cook. So to help you better create the best possible meals out of your rabbit we will examine the four basic classifications of rabbit based on the age of the animal (young fryers, fryers, roasters, and stewers).


Young Fryers: 2 to 3 months

What I like to call young fryers are usually butchered at 8 to 12 weeks (2 to 3 months). Meat rabbits at this age are generally 4 to 5 pounds in weight and will dress out at about 2 to 2 ½ lbs bone in weight. At this age the meat is the most tender and this is the most cost effective age at which to butcher your rabbits. Once they get to 4 months of age your cost benefit ratio of food to meat produced begins to drop dramatically. The flavor of the young fryer is the most mild, and as the classification implies, at this age the rabbit can be substituted for chicken in just about any recipe that you would like including fried rabbit. Rabbit at this age is generally fork tender no matter the cooking process. If you have ever bought commercially butchered rabbit in the supermarket, this is the age at which it is most widely available. Best uses: Grilled, sautéed, braised, deep fat or stir fried, and roasted.


Fryers: 3 to 6 months

As opposed to young fryers, fryers are slightly more mature and usually butchered between 12 to 36 weeks (3 to 4 months). Meat rabbits at this age are generally 5 to 6 pounds in weight and will dress out at about 2 ½ to 3 lbs bone in weight. Some people make no distinction between young fryers and fryers, however as the rabbit begins to age the meat begins to have a greater depth of flavor, and while still tender, it is not quite as tender as a young fryer. For the home rabbitry, rabbits at 6 months are just coming into maturity (healthy breeding age) and your cash outlay to get the rabbits to this size from that of a young fryer may have actually doubled, depending on your feeding program, while the meat produced by the rabbit has not dramatically increased.

As the rabbit gets older it begins to put on more muscle mass. While this increase in muscle mass does mean that it has more meat, the continued growth and use of these muscle fibers as the rabbit ages makes the meat less tender. As with the young fryer the meat is still mild, but not quite as tender, however as the classification implies, at this age the rabbit can be still substituted for chicken in just about any recipe that you would like, especially grilling, but if you like fried rabbit, the young fryer is a better choice. We try and butcher most of out rabbits here at TAP rabbitry before they get to the six month stage, but sometimes you need to keep stock on hand at this age in order to fill the need for customers who want mature breeding pairs or to exchange livestock with other breeders. Best uses: Grilled, sautéed, braised, deep fat or stir fried, baked and roasted.


Roasters: 6 to 12 months

These are your mature rabbits, and are butchered between 36 to 48 weeks (6 to 12 months). Meat rabbits at this age are generally 7 to 10 pounds in weight and will dress out at about 3 ½ to 5 lbs bone in weight. The flavor of this rabbit is really rather nice, however because of it's age, the meat can be quite tough. Rabbits at this age are best roasted or baked over a prolonged period of time to allow the fibers in the muscles to breakdown and become tender. There is nothing quite as delicious as a slow roasted rabbit. If you attempt to fry mature rabbits as you would a young chicken or rabbit fryer you will be disappointed with the results. While the meat will have great flavor, rabbit cooked at this age using high heat techniques such as frying or grilling will most often be tougher than most people prefer.

Here at TAP rabbitry any rabbit which we have not sold after six months goes to what we call “freezer camp”. While we may keep the hindquarters after butchering, at this stage in the animals life most of the meat is de-boned and frozen until we have enough to make into sausage. In addition, we cut up some of the rabbit and then boil it until the meat is tender and falls off the bone. This meat is then packed in it's own broth in mason (canning) jars and processed in a pressure canner so that we have rabbit meat to use in casseroles, soups, and even rabbit salad whenever we want. For information regarding canning rabbit and other wild game or meat, check out my article on 'Canning Rabbit and Poultry'. Best uses: Roasted, baked, boiled, poached, sausage, and canned.


Stewers: 12 months or older

These are your mature rabbits, and are butchered after 12 months of age. Meat rabbits at this age are generally 9 to 12 pounds in weight and will dress out at about 4 ½ to 6 lbs bone in weight. Many breeders will tell you that rabbits of this age have some of the best flavor, the downside to eating mature rabbits is that they can be really tough. Just as with poultry, and old rabbit is a stewing rabbit. The low and slow process of stewing meats helps to breakdown the connective tissue of older animals making them both tender and delicious. As I mentioned these rabbits are generally ones that have either outlived their breeding age or for whatever reason just need to be butchered. We have had an occasional buck or doe here at the TAP rabbitry that either just refused to breed, or continued to have small litters of 2 to 3 rabbits.

Like the roasters, rabbits which we do not stew are either de-boned for sausage or cut up, boiled and then de-boned and then canned in it's own broth in a pressure canner so that we have rabbit meat to use in casseroles, soups, and even rabbit salad whenever we want. For more information regarding stewing meats see my article on 'Moist Heat Cooking Methods' on my Culinary You blog. For recipes on making your own rabbit bratwurst or chorizo sausage, check out my articles on 'Making Bratwurst' and 'Making Spanish Style Chorizo' on our blog. Best uses: Stewed, slow roasted or baked, boiled, sausage, and canned.


Conclusion

Raising your own meat rabbits can be quite rewarding especially if you are concerned about where the food you feed to your family comes from and the conditions in which the animals are treated prior to butchering. When cooking rabbit it is important to take into consideration the age of the animal when trying to decide on a recipe. Remember, stewers make lousy fried rabbit, but they make a great traditional hausenpeffer (German rabbit stew). Fryers on the other hand are great for sautéing, braising and or frying, however the delicate flesh of the fryer can quickly become mushy when cooked using long slow techniques such as roasting, baking and especially stewing. 

Knowing the age of the rabbit you wish to cook can help you to choose the right recipe and or technique to create a tender and juicy meal making you look and feel like a five star Michelin chef. Ok, well maybe that is an overstatement, but I guarantee you that both you and your family will love the flavor and texture of home raised rabbit when cooked properly. As always, we ask that if you find this information interesting that you please share it with your friends on Facebook and Google+. Don't forget to send us a friend request on Facebook and Google+ or subscribe to our blog so that you do not miss any of our new articles or our notices regarding rabbit's that we have available for sale.


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